Up in the Air: Heinen’s European Airship Cheese Program Delivers Uncommon Quality and Taste
The following story was written by Heinen’s partner Elaine T. Cicora.
For cheese lovers, artisanal-foods fans, or anyone who delights in exploring new flavors, Heinen’s European Airship Cheese program is a passport to great taste.
The program, which flies in a monthly selection of unique, high-quality cheeses directly from Europe, has been part of Heinen’s Specialty Cheese Department for almost nine years. Now, thanks to the expertise of professionals like Regan Figueroa, Senior Director of Procurement and Business Development for World Import Distributers, the program is taking flight.
“We’re adding new cheeses, considering new countries, and introducing Heinen’s cheesemongers to an ever-evolving selection of European dairy items,” Regan explains. It’s a process that relies heavily on her 25 years of experience in the sourcing, sales, and distribution of fine cheeses.
“Some of these cheeses aren’t available anywhere else in the United States,” Regan says. “So, for Heinen’s shoppers, the European Airship Cheese program provides an uncommon opportunity to broaden their overall food pleasure while supporting small, artisanal producers who otherwise would never have an opportunity to be represented in the U.S.”
A Taste of Traditional European Cheesemaking at Your Fingertips
Although the program includes a rotating selection of artisanal European cheeses, Regan’s focus is on the cheeses of France; Spanish cheeses may be added in the future. (Other trusted distribution partners represent cheeses from Italy.) Regan’s work puts her directly in contact with European creameries and cheesemakers, which she personally represents to Heinen’s. She also assists in providing ongoing training and tasting opportunities to Heinen’s Specialty Cheese Associates.
Her mission, she says, is representing unique, uncommon, and hyper-seasonal products, including raw cows’ milk butters, soft-ripened Camemberts, washed-rind cheeses like Epoisses, and fresh goats’ milk cheeses (chevre), often enrobed in chopped dried fruits. Some of the cheeses, like the Epoisses, are labeled AOP or “Controlled Designation of Origin,” which marks them as having been produced, processed, and prepared in a specific geographical region, from a specific type of milk, using specific, traditional techniques. “All the production pieces are tightly controlled for these cheeses,” Regan explains, “down to how the milk is collected and where and how the cheese is aged.”
It’s similar to the wine concept of terroir: These are cheeses that speak very clearly of a particular place and time. “Cutting into one of them is almost like opening a time capsule,” Regan says. “You can taste the grass; you can taste the seasons – and you can almost imagine that you’re standing there in France.”
That can be especially appealing to well-traveled shoppers. “As people visit more countries and learn more about food, they’re becoming a little more adventurous,” Regan says. “So, this program is a nice way of letting shoppers recreate what they’ve experienced in their travels.” Furthermore, by staying abreast of trending foods and flavors, the program plays a key role in providing an exceptional experience for Heinen’s shoppers.
Beyond setting strict production standards, the AOP model also provides some protection for the small family farmsteads that produce most of the cheeses. “Nearly 85% of these cheeses are made by families or small producers,” Regan says. “The fact that these are the cheeses that Heinen’s is choosing to offer clearly demonstrates their connection and commitment to small artisanal producers, and it goes a long way toward supporting those producers’ livelihoods.”
A Collection Created Exclusively for Heinen’s Customers
Selecting the specific cheeses that become part of Heinen’s European Airship program is the enviable job of Chelsea Orr, Heinen’s Director of Specialty Cheese. Chelsea meets with Regan several times a year to sample, select, and vet Regan’s offerings against Heinen’s standards. “The taste profiles and price points are reviewed,” Regan explains, “and the story and history behind each product is discussed.” Ultimately, Chelsea approves the cheeses she believes are the best fit for Heinen’s shoppers. (Likewise, each individual Heinen’s location is free to make its own choices from among the cheeses that Chelsea has approved, reflecting what they believe their unique customer base will best enjoy.)
Approximately once a month, the cheeses that Chelsea selects for the European Airship program embark on their brief journey to the U.S. That trip begins at the massive Rungis International Market, just outside Paris, France, where Heinen’s cheeses are gathered, consolidated, and loaded onto a Wednesday flight to New York City. Once they’ve arrived at the Port of New York, the cheeses pass through customs and a series of inspections, before being settled onto trucks for Cleveland. “The trucks arrive in Ohio on Monday and the cheeses are delivered to Heinen’s Ohio and Illinois locations the next day,” Regan says. “The entire process takes a week.”
Flown Across the Pond for Optimal Freshness
But why fly in cheeses from Europe in the first place, when shipping by boat is less complicated and less costly?
That’s due to the especially delicate nature of these cheeses, Regan explains. “Many of the soft-ripened and washed-rind French cheeses don’t have a long shelf-life. If you were to try to ship them in by boat, it would take about 30 days – and that can be the entire lifespan of one of these cheeses. So, while it does affect the price, bringing them in by air is a fundamental necessity.”
A Simplified Shopping Experience with Heinen’s Expert Cheesemongers
Beyond regularly vetting and curating the cheeses, Heinen’s commitment to the European Airship program also includes ongoing training for associates. “It’s a chance to take a deep dive into the products, the producers, and the program, as well for the associates to try new tastes and expand their palates,” Regan says.
Unsurprisingly, the response has been enthusiastic. “The products we work with are extremely tasty, so it’s easy to win new converts!” she laughs. “And the more the associates know about the cheeses, the better they can represent – and ultimately sell – these fantastic products!”
“That investment in hands-on training, and the commitment it represents, also helps set Heinen’s apart from other grocers,” Regan says.
“It’s very uncommon to find knowledgeable cheesemongers in a grocery store these days,” she explains. “And the labor that Heinen’s puts into this program – by training its associates to represent, merchandise, cut, and sell fine cheeses – certainly sets them apart.”
For Heinen’s shoppers, of course, it’s all upside: expert customer service, an opportunity to support small, artisanal producers and – best of all – a chance to take home some of the most unique and delicious dairy products this side of the Atlantic.
“These may be uncommon cheeses,” Regan says. “But enjoying them should be an everyday treat.”
